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We hired a car in the capitol of Lesbos, Mytilini, and headed up the coast.
Our goal was Molyvos – and don’t be confused with the ancient sign posting as the town was called Methymna; or is still called that, I could never really work it out.
Molyvos is one of the most enchanting villages that you will find on a Greek island. It clusters up the hill towards the (magnificent) Genoese castle, the stone houses crowding the cobblestoned streets that are draped in ancient wisteria vines.The fishing boats rock gently behind the sea wall of the harbour on the point, and in between all of this we found the wonderful hospitality of the restaurant called ‘Once Upon a Time in Molyvos’. I’m afraid to say that the restaurant may have been aptly named because Penny and Kosta are no longer in Molyvos and I believe they have moved back to Athens.
We used Molyvos as a base to see the rest of the island and stayed there for eight days. After a day of sightseeing, we would return to our little balcony around 4pm and have a glass of wine. At around 7.30pm (maybe early by Greek standards) we would wander down to the quay and ask Penny what was special that night (and it always was special).
Some tourists will go to a different restaurant each night. We prefer (providing the first one is a good one) to stay the course and build up a relationship.
Molyvos is a lovely place – but don’t rush in and rush out. Take your time to let its magic be absorbed.
Have a quiet ouzo with some meze at one of the restaurants on the harbour and watch the fishing boats bring in their catch, climb up through the wisteria covered alleys of the town and buy a trinket or two, visit the castle on top of the hill and look at the view – enjoy yourself.