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Montmatre is a long established mecca for artists, writers, poets and tourists.
Maybe avoid visiting on Sundays when the tourists will be at their peak attraction. On a hot day, you could buy an ice-cream and sit on the gutter (there’s not many other places to sit) and do some people watching.
There are plenty of chic boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and souvenir shops.
You can avoid the walk up the hill by catching the funicular that runs up to Sacre-Couer. If you come early during a week day you will get more of the village like feeling that so many people love about Montmartre.
As an aside, while we were in Paris we made time to spend a night at a performance at Moulin Rouge – we had an excellent night. Dinner and the show were both fantastic.
As they say on their website “Since Octobre 1889, the Moulin Rouge has been internationally identified with the very essence of so many dreams, Parsian fun, high spirits and glamour. Experiencing a Moulin Rouge evening show is a dazzling disgression that makes one look at life with joy and pleasure in an intense athmosphere through contact with performers… a magical and unforgettable moment!” Don’t miss it.